Bring a large pan of water to boil. Immerse the tomatoes for 2–3 minutes. Drain. When the tomatoes are cool enough to handle, peel them. The skins should slip off easily. Remove the cores (on the flat end where the tomato attached to the plant). Put in a bowl and mash or squeeze with hands until broken up. Place in a colander and allow to drain gently. Save the juice if you like, it’s good as fresh tomato juice or soup stock. It will need a dash of salt.

Heat a wide skillet and coat the bottom with olive oil. Add garlic and stir until it sizzles. Add basil or oregano, salt and pepper. Stir a few times and slip in the tomatoes. Gently simmer about 10 minutes. Mix, taste and adjust seasonings. The salt will bring out the flavors—add it gradually.