Toast all chiles over medium heat in a pan or wood-burning oven, moving them frequently until they release their aromas and become darker in color. Remove from heat and set aside in a large bowl.

Toast sesame seeds until they darken slightly and begin to pop. Remove from heat and place in a separate bowl.

Toast raisins until they begin to darken and swell. Remove from heat and set aside with sesame seeds.

Continue to toast the almonds, walnuts, nutmeg, allspice berries, cloves and cinnamon—all at once—moving them frequently. Remove from heat and set aside once they begin to release their aromas; add to raisins and sesame seeds.

For the oregano, thyme and bay leaves, quickly toast in pan or wood-fired oven just until their aromas are released (about 5 seconds), and then remove from heat.

Toast the onion and garlic until soft and slightly blackened. Remove from heat, then peel once cool enough to handle.

Roast tomatoes until soft.

Pour hot water over toasted chiles for 5 minutes, then discard water. Mix softened chiles with other toasted/ roasted ingredients.

Working in batches, blend ingredients until very smooth. If necessary, add a small amount of chicken (or duck) stock to get the blender going.

Prepare a large pot over medium-high heat. Add lard or oil until it becomes very hot. Add chile mixture to pot and fry, stirring frequently as it thickens, approximately 10 minutes.

Add 2 cups chicken broth, chocolate, sugar and salt. Bring to a boil for 5 minutes. Lower to medium heat. Simmer approximately 15 more minutes, stirring occasionally.