Prepare corn:

Cut stem end off cobs to release the husks. Trim top end to remove tassel. Peel the leaves off without tearing them, setting them aside for the tamales. You will use the biggest ones. Rinse leaves off in warm water to remove any grit and set them in a colander to drain. Dry on dish towels before wrapping the filling.

Pull any remaining corn silk off the husked cobs, using a small brush if necessary. Trim any dark or dry spots off cob.

Use a large bowl to hold the cob when scraping the kernels. (The sides of the bowl will keep the kernels from flying off all over the counter.) Stand the cob up on its larger end and, using a sharp 10-inch chef’s knife, cut the kernels from top to bottom on the side facing away from you, rotating the cob as you go. Be sure to cut close to the cob as possible to get off all the meat of the corn along with its milky, starchy liquid.

Prepare tamale filling:

Grind corn kernels coarsely in food processor until creamy but still a little chunky. Pour into a large bowl and add chicken stock a little at a time. Mixture should be creamy but not runny.

Cream the butter until fluffy. This can be done in a mixer.

Combine salt, sugar, garlic powder and baking powder. Sprinkle the seasoning over the butter and mix it in.

Add masa dough to the butter in ½-cup-size pieces; crumble them and mix in well by hand or with a wooden spoon. Add corn kernels and mix well. Add green chiles and jalapeños, if using, and mix all together until well blended and smooth. Mixture should be creamy and fluffy.

Assemble and cook the tamales:

Spread about ¼ cup of the masa mixture over the corn husk, leaving a 2-inch space at the wider part blank. This will be the top end, allowing room for the tamale to swell as it cooks.

Place a log of cheese in the middle and fold into thirds: one side of the husk over the center, then the other side on top of that. Fold the long, narrow end of the husk up to close the bottom and press it all together.

Fill a large steamer pot with enough water to come up to the steam tray.

Place tamales in the tray, open side up, fitting them in closely so they don’t fall over. (Some cooks lay 3 or 4 of the stripped corn cobs in a triangle or square shape in the bottom of the steamer to help prop up the tamales. The small leftover husks can be placed on top of the tamales in the steamer to hold in steam).

Cover tightly and steam for 1 hour or more. Watch that the water does not boil away and add more if needed.

When done, the texture of the tamales will be firm and the leaves will peel back cleanly, leaving the imprint of the corn husk visible.

Serving suggestions:

Serve hot. Garnish, with your favorite chile sauce, crema or salsa; or freeze, wrapped in foil or film for future use.