Corn for Tamales
In Mexico, a different version of fresh corn tamale is made from a variety of white Mexican corn, which is starchier than U.S. varieties and needs no masa or corn flour as a binder to create a cohesiv...
Celebrate Corn Season: Learn to Make Green Corn Tamales
AS THE SUN approaches the solstice and heat shimmers over the fields to the sound of singing cicadas, I know that the first corn harvest is near. Fresh corn takes center stage in my midsummer menus, and each season I enjoy trying new recipes.
This year I plan to make fresh, or “green,” corn tamales. Based on juicy kernels from fresh ears of sweet corn, they are typically wrapped and steamed in the green corn husk. A festive crowd pleaser as well as comfort food, these summer delicacies are perfect for barbecues with family and friends, or a quiet Sunday supper. They can be made in advance and frozen for future use.
There are as many variations of tamales, both sweet and savory, as there are cooks. Sometimes the cheese is grated into the tamale dough. Some cooks purée the corn finely, while other cooks substitute corn flour for the masa.
In my quest to learn firsthand how to make green corn tamales I was introduced to an expert, Martha Castillo. Castillo loves to cook. She comes from Mexico City, where her father was a passionate, talented cook and restaurateur.
Her mother died when she was only 3 years old so she spent a lot of time with her dad at his side as he cooked. “Born in Spain, he came to Mexico and fell in love with the traditions and foods of Mexico. He was inspired, an alchemist with food, always combing and experimenting with ingredients. I am like him.”
The youngest of five girls, Castillo’s older sisters taught her recipes from her Oaxacan mother. “I have the passion, the creativity, the inspiration. My sisters say I got it all. I follow my passion, what makes me happy,” she says. “I did not seek success, but success comes if you do what you love, and do it well.”
Not just a wonderful cook, Castillo is also the mother and business partner of Pauline Pimienta and Maria Stanzak, the founders and owners of The Tamale Store.
Her recipes have inspired those used in the business, which her daughters now run. The fresh nixtamalized masa used by The Tamale Store is custom-made by a supplier in Mexico, but all Tamale Store fillings including beans, chili sauces and meats are cooked inhouse and shredded or mixed by hand.
“Did you teach your daughters to cook?” I ask.
“No, they are not cooks,” she replies. “In this business I am the love, my daughters are the brains,” she says with a laugh.
Her son Eddy does love to cook, and he is the kitchen production manager at The Tamale Store. Together they have traveled to Oaxaca to take cooking classes, bringing home fresh ideas.
After a few years of selling tamales at Phoenix-area farmers markets, the mother-daughter trio successfully expanded the business to include wholesale customers as well as a small restaurant and takeout facilities at their commercial kitchen in North Phoenix. They offer a large variety of tamales including extensive vegetarian and vegan options.
For the green corn tamales, Castillo shared with me her Tia Chata’s family recipe. Her version uses fresh, nixtamalized masa dough to give body to the tamale. This traditionally prepared masa is healthier than the instant corn flour that is used in many other recipes and gives the tamales a distinctive flavor.
Watching Castillo deftly work the dough by hand as she demonstrates how to make the green corn tamales confirms her love of this timeless, traditional food, which has brought joy and nourishment to Mexican families for centuries.
The Tamale Store
15842 N. Cave Creek Rd., Phoenix | 602-735-2604
thetamalestore.com
Hours: Monday-Saturday
10:30am—7pm, Sunday
10am—4pm
Don’t miss the mercado, with special Mexican candies, salsa and other specialties.
For their valley-wide farmers market schedules, check the website or call.
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