Chef Charleen Badman Roasts Dave's Chicken from Two Wash Ranch

As photographer Debby Wolvos has traveled the state, she has had the privilege of meeting and getting to know the people behind our local food community—be they farmers, ranchers, bakers, artisan food producers or chefs. This photo series explores the relationships, inspirations and ingredients from these producers.

The eighth (and final) entry in this two-year photojournalism series features Charleen Badman, co-owner/chef at FnB Restaurant, and farmer Dave Jordan of Two Wash Ranch. Two Wash Ranch is a poultry farm in New River where Dave raises cage-free chickens and other birds, as well as eggs and produce. Charleen’s featured dish is Dave’s Roast Chicken with Fall Squash.

Dave Jordan’s chicken will spoil you. I can only guess how quickly our brunch pop-up at FnB will sell out. Pavle Milic, co-owner of FnB and winemaker, will supply the wine pairings. Thanks to Charleen and Dave for meeting me at Two Wash, and for giving me a glimpse into the lives of two equally dedicated, “it’s-all-about the quality" kind of people.

DEBBY WOLVOS: Your menus at FnB showcase local agriculture so well, such as Dave Jordan’s chicken.

CHEF CHARLEEN BADMAN: I buy Dave’s chickens and eggs all year. Other items include turkeys, guinea hens and ducks and their eggs, and his special red pepper eggs. He has the best cucumbers, okra, summer squash and fun herbs like Mexican tarragon and Delfino cilantro. He has the sweetest and funkiest carrots in the fall/winter. His glacier lettuce brings our salads to other levels. I love how he likes to experiment. Adding paprika to the feed of the laying chickens to color the yolks works great when we are curing the yolks to grate over vegetables and give the dish an umami flavor.

DW: You first met Dave at the Phoenix Farmers Market years ago?

CB: Yes, then he came in to FnB one afternoon with a cooler of eggs, cucumbers, herbs and other produce. I will never forget his varieties of broad beans.

DW: What is your inspiration for “Dave’s Chicken” with Goat Quark, Fall Squash and Chiltepin Oil?

CB: I love to cook roast chicken. I was taught by my chef, Anne Rosenzweig in NYC, to cook the chicken skin side down the entire time for the crispiest skin and the juiciest meat. The goat quark is like a sour cream and gives the dish cooling, tangy and fatty elements. The squash reminds me of fall. The chiltepin (native to the Southwest) gives the chicken a smoky heat and is one of my favorite chiles.

DW: What has Dave taught you?

CB: We took the kitchen staff out to Dave’s and spent the day breaking down chickens. It gave us insight into what he is accomplishing. It gave us more respect for the animal, the importance of using the whole animal, and food sustainability. He also shares his knowledge of working the land. He has inspired me to share his tips with kids and their school gardens. Dave always strives to provide the highest quality.

Our pop-up event for this article will be a brunch featuring Dave’s chicken at FnB Restaurant on Saturday, October 6. For more information and tickets, see twowash.eventbrite.com. For info on future events, follow Edible Phoenix on Facebook or sign up for our e-newsletter.