Sumac Berries: Citrus in a Seed
Before the Spaniards brought lemons to the New World, there was sumac. From prehistoric times to the present, the bright red, slightly fuzzy berries have provided indigenous cooks a tart, zesty season...
In the Middle East, ground dried sumac is the defining ingredient of the famous za’atar spice blend, used in the Levant as a dip for bread, for topping a flatbread called man’oushe and as a seasoning for meat, fish and vegetable dishes. While the sumac variety in that part of the world is different, a tasty za’atar seasoning can be made with our local Rhus trilobata or other varieties.
Za’atar is the name of both the popular seasoning mix and a wild herb (also called hyssop, and similar to oregano or marjoram) native to the deserts of Palestine and the Levant.
Za’atar has many recipe variations—each family has its favorite version—but always includes sumac, thyme and/or oregano, sesame seeds and salt. Sometimes marjoram, cumin or other herbs and spices are added. Recipes using za’atar abound on the Internet and in current Middle Eastern cookbooks. Some of my favorites are from the Israeli chef Yotam Ottolenghi.
If you are a born forager, making za’atar at home is rewarding, especially using locally foraged sumac and your own homegrown, freshly dried herbs. It is a rich addition to the spice shelf and makes a nice gift from the desert. Here is the basic recipe:
Ingredients
SERVINGS: 1 scant cup Cup(s)
- 4 tablespoons ground sumac
- 7 tablespoons dried thyme
- 2 tablespoons dried oregano
- 2–3 tablespoons toasted whole sesame seeds
- ½ teaspoon salt
- Optional ingredients: dried medium-hot chili flakes, sweet paprika, cumin, summer savory, marjoram.
Preparation
Grind all ingredients together. Add more sumac, salt or other ingredients to adjust to your taste. Sprinkle on pita chips toasted with olive oil or bread brushed with olive oil as a snack. Or add to vegetables such as roasted squash, chicken or baked fish.
About this recipe
Note: If this all seems too labor intensive, sumac is readily available at Middle Eastern markets such as Haji-Baba in Tempe, at Penzey’s and online from various sources. Because the sumac one buys commercially appears to be a darker, more brownish red, I suspect it comes from a variety other than three-leaf sumac—perhaps staghorn (an eastern United States variety) or smooth sumac, whose cone-shaped drupes are very easy to harvest. The taste is similar. Purchase high-quality dried thyme, oregano and sesame seeds, and you can make up a fresh batch to have on hand and share with friends.
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Sumac Pudding: Chilchin
Great for breakfast. I have seen this made with flour but prefer the cornmeal for texture and flavor.
