Navajo Foodways
A concerted effort is underway to preserve vanishing Navajo (Diné) foodways in the light of fast and commodity food, food deserts and obesity. This food sovereignty movement seeks to decolonize Native American diets, grow traditional food sources and preserve vanishing knowledge around food preparation. The following sources aid in those efforts.
For a scholarly historical approach to Navajo food culture and preparation, you won’t go wrong with Food Sovereignty the Navajo Way: Cooking with Tall Woman by Charlotte J. Frisbie, with recipes by Tall Woman and assistance from Augusta Sandoval (University of New Mexico Press, 2018).
An anthropologist, Frisbie lived on and off in Chinle, Arizona, with Tall Woman (aka Rose Mitchell) and her family from 1963 until Tall Woman’s death in 1977. That work resulted in biographies of both Tall Woman and her husband, Frank Mitchell, a Navajo Blessingway singer. At the request of the Navajo Nation Historic Preservation Department, Tall Woman’s recipes and cooking knowledge have been gathered into this separate volume completed with the assistance of Tall Woman’s daughter, Augusta Sandoval.
Tall Woman was born in 1874, just a few years after the return of the Navajo to their tribal lands, so her story parallels the changes in Navajo agriculture, food preparation and diet over almost a century of modern Navajo history. (Frisbie also includes an overview of recent food sovereignty efforts in chapter one.) Chapter two provides information on Navajo subsistence practices and chapter three is organized around Tall Woman’s recipes, ingredients and techniques.
On a lighter note, we found two colorful paperbacks celebrating Navajo corn and corn recipes:
Naadą́ą́’ dóó Naadą́ą́’ Ch’iyáán: Healthy Foods, My First Book About Corn by Bernhard Michaelis (Native Child Dinétah, 2016); and Navajo Corn Recipes: Diné Binaadą́ą́’ Ch’iyáán by Bernhard Michaelis (Native Child Dinétah, 2017)
Native Child is the result of Michaelis’s over 30 years with Head Start on the Navajo Nation and with other tribes in Arizona. The organization was founded “to help preserve and continue Navajo culture, language and history ... for Diné schools, preschools and institutions of higher education on and off the Navajo Reservation.” But the materials are now available to the general public.
The first book, for children 3 and up, primarily focuses on the Navajo words for various parts of the corn plant and related dishes (including the amazing speckled corn on the cover). The second book is a bi-lingual introduction to 20 corn recipes and the associated preparation equipment and techniques ranging from the still-ubiquitous blue corn mush to more labor-intensive fresh corn steamed in a pit.
Native Child also offers six small corn recipe posters like the one below for ʾatłish, a corn and pine nut butter with various flavoring options.
To order books and posters, see nativechild.com.