Blue Corn: The Sweet Taste of Home

“The Sweet Taste of Home” is more than just a slogan for Billy Erickson’s baked goods company, Blue Naadą́ą́’ Sweets; it is a mission statement—an acknowledgement of the connection between food and memory, culture and identity.

For many Indigenous community members in Arizona, the luscious, earthy aroma of his blue corn goodies is a call back to their roots. Many have approached Erickson with tears in their eyes, telling him his products “taste just like childhood, like growing up on the reservation,” he said.

For Erickson, a citizen of the Navajo Nation, blue corn brings back memories of his own youth in Window Rock: his paternal grandmother serving blue corn mush like breakfast cereal; his maternal grandmother whipping up batches of blue corn pancakes; the corn that his paternal grandfather grew in the desert surrounding his home, no matter the season.

His company is a celebration of all things blue corn, sourced from Navajo growers. Naadą́ą́’ (pronounced NA-dah) is the Diné word for corn. Erickson offers a range of products: blue corn cupcakes, cookies studded with piñons (pine nuts), pancake and cookie mixes and single-serving mix packets of blue corn mush.

In addition, Erickson sells iced Navajo tea, made from plants foraged by his mother. The tea has proven to be a surprise hit, demonstrating the widespread demand for authentic Navajo flavors from non-tribal customers as well.

“I created Blue Naadą́ą́’ Sweets to help remind the Indigenous community, to take them back home,” Erickson said, “but also for the outside community to see the heritage that we have.”

The reception has been nothing short of extraordinary. From the first sale that earned Erickson $700 in a single weekend in 2020 to the long lines at his market stands around the Valley and Northeastern Arizona today, Blue Naadą́ą́’ Sweets has resonated both with those familiar with blue corn and those discovering it for the first time.

A Flavor Like No Other: The Tastiest and Healthiest Corn

There’s a reason blue corn has become a beloved ingredient. As Freddie Bitsoie writes in his cookbook New Native Kitchen, “blue cornmeal just tastes better.”

Sweet yet earthy, nutty yet complex, it offers a depth of flavor that feels both comforting and novel. You may have encountered blue corn in Mexican cuisine too—in tortillas, chips, craft beers or even whiskeys—but the taste is particularly special when combined with sweet elements.

I will never forget my first bite of a blue corn cookie: The world exploded into possibilities of sweetness enriched with a deep earthiness and whole-grain warmth, toasted and tender. It evoked the familiar taste of cornbread, but infinitely more intriguing and complex. Erickson’s cookies are remarkable for being soft yet sturdy, their perfect marriage of sweet and savory and their swoon-worthy blue color.

But what is blue corn, exactly? And why is it blue?

Blue corn is a variety of maize domesticated over 7,000 years ago in Mesoamerica. Thanks to selective breeding by early farmers, its distinctive blue hue comes from anthocyanins, the same pigments responsible for the colors of blueberries, grapes and purple cabbage. These compounds not only contribute to blue corn’s vibrant appearance but also provide powerful antimicrobial properties.

It is also the healthiest corn, according to Erickson. Blue corn boasts higher amounts of antioxidants, protein and fiber than yellow or white corn, with a lower glycemic index. The plant is a particularly good source of B vitamins, magnesium and zinc boosting metabolism and immune function. Additionally, blue corn is typically consumed in whole, minimally processed forms, which better preserve its nutrients.

Blue corn has deep roots in Arizona—literally. Though it has a relatively short stalk above ground, blue corn grows deep underground and prefers sandy soils, making it a perfect desert-adapted crop. Moreover, it has been cultivated for centuries by Indigenous peoples including the Navajo, Hopi and Zuni.

These groups adapted blue corn to thrive in the arid Southwest, using traditional dry farming methods that conserve water and are the epitome of climate-smart agriculture. Passed down through generations, these techniques involve planting seeds deeply and spacing them widely, to reach moisture and reduce competition for nutrients.

As our food system faces mounting challenges from climate change, the sustainability of blue corn makes it a compelling crop. Its ability to thrive with minimal resources not only makes it an ecologically sound choice but also preserves the legacy of traditional farming practices that emphasize harmony with the environment.

A Blue Corn Business Is Born

“If you can’t sleep, bake,” Erickson likes to say. He has always turned to baking to deal with stress. So perhaps it is no surprise that Erickson’s journey to entrepreneurship began during the early COVID-19 shutdowns. He was employed in an office environment, which evolved into an unexpected opportunity to find himself and follow his true calling.

With extra time at home, he started experimenting with blue corn recipes, aiming to perfect the texture and flavor of his baked goods. His efforts paid off with cupcakes that were soft, solid and vibrantly blue. Cookies were next.

Encouraged by his boss at the time, Erickson decided to share his creations with others.

Soon after, he launched his business with a website and accounts on Facebook, Instagram and TikTok, where he partnered with Native content creators to promote his goods. One day, he noticed a website analytics button and clicked it out of curiosity; he was stunned to see over 80,000 visitors had been to his site in just a short time.

The overwhelming response confirmed the demand for blue corn products, finally allowing Erickson to quit his day job to focus on the business.

Four years later, Blue Naadą́ą́’ Sweets has become a beloved fixture at markets in Arizona with a loyal clientele who follow his social media accounts to learn his next location. Erickson’s booth, often marked by long lines, is a testament to the popularity of the “taste of Navajo” he offers.

Erickson nearly always sells out. Still, he is careful not to overbake, as he would not want to waste even a kernel of the blue corn he and his ancestors consider sacred.

Blue Corn Is Sacred

Blue corn has played a vital role in the spiritual and cultural practices of many Native American tribes in Arizona, serving as a connection to the land and a representation of sustenance and life. Blue corn is an essential ingredient in significant Hopi dishes such as piki bread.

Seen as a sacred gift from the earth, blue corn also serves an essential role in traditional Navajo ceremonies and rituals, especially those marking important life transitions, such as the Kinaaldá, a coming-of-age ceremony for girls. During a traditional Diné wedding, the marrying couple feeds each other blue corn mush from a wedding basket, instead of cake.

Non-Native chefs and foodies are gaining wide recognition for blue corn as they embrace the ingredient. Erickson said he is heartened to see this broader appreciation, provided it is done with respect and acknowledgement of its origins.

Growing for the Future

Blue corn is also reaching a new generation within the Native community.

Erickson said he sees excited children asking their parents for a cookie or cupcake from his stand, and often, the adult replies, “But you don’t like blue corn mush. You won’t like it.” Yet, when given the first taste, the children squeal with delight. If given the chance, he observes, many children like it.

It’s questioning this assumption that children will not like something traditional that can lead to a wider acceptance of ancestral practices, so that blue corn will not just recall a taste of childhood but becomes something that is always cooked and eaten throughout life. With his pre-packaged mixes, Erickson has made it easier to eat these ancestral foods more often or to try them for the first time.

Erickson is encouraged by seeing a greater eagerness of younger generations to preserve ancient ways. For example, his younger sister, a high school student, is interested in learning from her elders and already knows how to butcher a sheep and prepare traditional dishes. Erickson also plays a role in passing down knowledge by giving talks to schoolchildren about the cultural significance of blue corn and introducing them to blue corn mush prepared with natural ingredients like honey and berries.

Blue Naadą́ą́’ Sweets is poised for even greater growth. Erickson is working with Bashas’ to expand production and bring his products to their shelves. He has received inquiries from other major stores and even an offer for his company, though he does not plan to sell.

For Erickson, this work is as personal as it is communal. He has not lost sight of the community of friends, family and customers that have enabled him to share his blue corn baking with the world.

A Taste That Defines a State

Blue corn is one of the desert-adapted foods Local First Arizona is spotlighting this year to celebrate our state’s culinary heritage while promoting environmentally friendly ingredients we can all savor.

Local First is a nonprofit that supports local businesses and communities throughout the state to build a thriving, inclusive economy. One of Local First’s goals is to improve access to drought-tolerant, nutritious, locally grown food and reduce the risk of disruptions to our food supply chain by supporting small-to-medium-size farmers, ranchers and agricultural producers.

We envision a future where the fruits, vegetables, grains, legumes and cactus we enjoy from our grocery stores and restaurants are grown as close to home and with as little water and environmental impacts as possible.

Among the programs Local First has launched to support food businesses like Blue Naadą́ą́’ Sweets are entrepreneur training programs, community kitchens and funding opportunities such as USDA Business Builder grants up to $100,000, Arizona Climate-Smart Practices grants up to $48,000 and Arizona Alliance for Climate-Smart Crops grants up to $31,000.

In closing, I ask Erickson what he thinks of the state of Arizona’s culinary landscape. His reply is enthusiastic: Arizona is a special place, with a culinary identity that is as diverse as its landscape, shaped by tribal communities, ethnic groups and immigrant traditions, enriching one another with their willingness to share.

Yet, unlike Chicago’s deep-dish pizza or Miami’s Cuban sandwich, Arizona lacks a single signature dish. Could blue corn cookies be the answer? Judging by their popularity and the lines at Erickson’s market stands, they make a strong case for themselves.

Learn more

To purchase Blue Naadą́ą́’ Sweets, follow @bluenaadaasweets on Facebook, Instagram or TikTok. Blue Naadą́ą́’ Sweets also can be found at Local First food events such as the Arizona Fall Festival every November.

Find more native Arizona ingredients and recipes on Local First’s food-focused Facebook and Instagram accounts @goodfoodaz. The state’s largest directory of local farms and food businesses is available at www.goodfoodfinder.com.