Against the American Grain
Against the American Grain by Gary Nabhan is a thought-provoking read for anyone interested in the history of resistance and rebellion in the Southwest. Nabhan has a gift for vivid storytelling, and throughout the book he paints the picture of how the history of resistors, spiritual leaders, organizers and nomads of the Southwest actively shaped our modern identities and communities.
While the book is rooted in the retelling of bold acts of resistance by those who have historically inhabited the borderlands, Nabhan’s connection to the food and plants of a place can be gleaned throughout the book. Such as the influence of Mustafa al-Zemmouri’s North African roots on the renaming of plants and foods during his time traveling with the Spaniards, or the use of herbs, barks, seeds and clay dirt by a curandera, Teresita de Cábora, as she supported Indigenous people through healing their bodies and spirits while they struggled for their rights. The inextricable interrelatedness between the land and the political, cultural and spiritual state of its people is clear throughout the book.
Nabhan, well-known for his work in sustainable agriculture and ethnobotany, is an active advocate for a revival of heirloom varieties and traditional farming methods, which is especially relevant today as many people are looking to reconnect with where their food comes from and support sustainable practices. As co-founder of Native Seeds/SEARCH, a Tucson-based organization that works to preserve indigenous Southwestern agricultural plants as well as knowledge of their uses, he has helped to provide practical ways that inspired readers can contribute to that change.
Nabhan has authored over 40 other books, which primarily focus on the plants and culture of the desert. They include winner of the 2024 James Beard Foundation’s Award for Beverage Writing without Recipes Agave Spirits: The Past, Present, and Future of Mezcals; Gathering the Desert; Chile, Clove, and Cardamom: A Gastronomic Journey Into the Fragrances and Flavors of Desert Cuisines; and Mesquite, among others.
