Mesquite Tamales with Sweet Potato Masa
Nearly 20 years ag I experienced the culinary trip of a lifetime, traveling with ethnobotanist Gary Nabhan to El Desemboque, a Seri village on the Sea of Cortez. We gathered saguaro fruit, and made it into jam, and mesquite pods, which we roasted for tamales.The original recipe was published by the Desert Harvesters in Eat Mesquite and More. This recipe is a revised version because one ingredient, frozen fresh masa, is difficult to find these days. Fresh masa will still work in this recipe if you can find it. Here, I’ve reworked the recipe to use readily available dry masa harina. Available mesquite meal is finely ground and unroasted, or you might harvest and grind your own. In this recipe, mesquite becomes a complex, sweet complement to the filling’s spicy, smoky chilies and rich black beans. Mushrooms stand in for chicken in the vegan version. Plus, I’ve added sweet potatoes to enhance flavor and texture.These tamales taste traditionally delicious. We’ve already happily eaten all you see in the photos and I’m ready to throw a tamale party to make a bunch more. Tamales are a lot of work, so gather friends and family to pitch in—you can make dozens while having a fun time! Frozen tamales make a great main dish for a quick dinner.
Ingredients
- For Filling
- 1 pound boneless, organic chicken thighs or 1 pound baby portobello mushrooms
- Olive oil as needed
- Salt and pepper (to taste)
- 1 cup cooked or canned black beans, drained (reserve liquid)
- 8 ounces queso fresco, crumbled (or vegan feta)
- For Sauce:
- 3 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil
- 2 tablespoons New Mexico chili powder
- ¼ teaspoon chipotle flakes or powder (to taste)
- ½ teaspoon ground cumin
- 1 teaspoon dried oregano
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 cup mesquite flour
- 2 cups water or as needed
- For Masa:
- 1 pound sweet potato, baked or microwaved until tender, yielding 1½ cups cooked
- ½ cup butter (or vegan butter)
- 2 teaspoons baking powder
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 3 cups masa harina flour, preferably organic or heirloom*
- 2½ cups water or as needed
Instructions
- TO START:
- Place cornhusks in bowl, covering with warm water. Set aside.
- Preheat oven to 350°F.
- PREPARE FILLING:
- Salt and pepper whole chicken thighs. For vegan version, cut mushrooms into large pieces, drizzle with oil, season with salt and pepper. Place on sheet pan and cook 15–20 minutes, until cooked through. Cool, cut into ½-inch pieces.
- MAKE SAUCE:
- Using ceramic plate, toast mesquite flour in microwave for 30 seconds. Stir well with a fork—flour will clump. Repeat until mesquite is toasty brown, taking care not to burn.
- Heat vegetable oil in medium skillet. Add chili powder, cumin, oregano, salt and mesquite flour. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly until mixture sizzles and color deepens to a darker red. Add water, stir and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer until slightly thick. Add chicken or mushrooms and beans, simmer 5 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning; add more chili, chipotle and/or salt if desired. If necessary, add more water or bean liquid to make a thick sauce. Set aside.
- PREPARE MASA:
- Using food processor or electric mixer, mix prepared sweet potato and butter until smooth and light. Add baking powder, salt, masa harina flour and 2 cups water. Pulse until well combined, then turn out into bowl. With clean hands, work to consistency of soft Play-Doh. Add more water as needed.
- TO ASSEMBLE:
- Remove cornhusks from water and pat dry. Lay out one cornhusk flat with pointed end up. Place masa on cornhusk, about ¼ inch thick, leaving top third and 1 inch on each side uncovered. Next, lay a vertical ribbon of sauce with chicken (or mushrooms) and beans on masa. Sprinkle filling with crumbled cheese.
- Fold right edge of cornhusk over filling, then unfold. Fold left edge over filling so masa completely encases it. Roll tamale up in cornhusk wrapper. Use a strip from another cornhusk to tie pointed end with a single knot and fold over. Place assembled tamales on a baking sheet and repeat until all ingredients are used.
- TO COOK:
- In a steamer over simmering water, place all tamales standing upright with folded end down, open side on top, tightly covered for 45–60 minutes. Test for doneness by removing one and gently pulling away wrapper. Fully cooked dough will be firm, not sticky, and retain pattern from cornhusk wrapper. Remove tamales carefully and allow to rest 15 minutes before serving.
- TO STORE:
- Tamales keep in refrigerator for up to a week and freeze well. To reheat, douse them with a little water and warm in microwave.
Notes
*INGREDIENT NOTE:
Masa harina is the universally popular version of dried corn used in tortillas and tamales. The corn is subjected to an ancient alkaline treatment using ash or cal (slaked lime), which is mixed with water. Whole-kernel corn is then cooked and soaked in this solution, creating nixtamal (hominy) that’s more digestible, nutritious and produces a more pliable dough. The nixtamal is traditionally ground while wet to make masa for tortillas and tamales. It is then dried into masa harina (flour) for quick use and is widely available. Most masa harina is made from GMO corn unless it is labeled organic or heirloom. I recommend Bob’s Red Mill, King Arthur Organics or Masienda Heirloom.
Masa harina is the universally popular version of dried corn used in tortillas and tamales. The corn is subjected to an ancient alkaline treatment using ash or cal (slaked lime), which is mixed with water. Whole-kernel corn is then cooked and soaked in this solution, creating nixtamal (hominy) that’s more digestible, nutritious and produces a more pliable dough. The nixtamal is traditionally ground while wet to make masa for tortillas and tamales. It is then dried into masa harina (flour) for quick use and is widely available. Most masa harina is made from GMO corn unless it is labeled organic or heirloom. I recommend Bob’s Red Mill, King Arthur Organics or Masienda Heirloom.
